getty images/Perri Tomkiewicz
The truth is, fashion has never been immune to the realities of life. Do we sometimes rather lean into fantasy on the runway than face everything that exists outside of it? Of course. But it will find its way. As it should. Whether it’s a minute’s silence for Ukraine at Armani or the more overt Armageddon at Balenciaga, today, more than ever, the fashion industry is responding to the world in all its polarities. That’s not to say that part of it doesn’t also feature the visual escape hatch. From returning to the art of feminine dressing in response to so many months in jogging pants, to robe coats as self-care, to equestrian vibes that bring us all back to nature, see how the trends reflect our world today—or all one little prettier and glitzier to help the collective deal.
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As we’ve all got dressed again for work and parties, a part of us is still longing for #robelife. Talk to that inner cozy kid in coats that wrap you up, grow up, and, yes, sometimes go home again.
Clockwise from left: Balmain, Saint Laurent, Victor Glemaud, Nili Lotan, Gucci, Stella McCartney, Coperni, Bottega Veneta
Faux fur coat from White Label
If you are looking for glamour, look no further. The ’80s are back – and bolder – and redder than ever. Embrace oversized proportions and epic sparkle in looks meant to be immortalized on film. There’s old-school Valentino red.
Clockwise from left: Carolina Herrera, LaQuan Smith, Paco Rabanne, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Moschino, Max Mara, Missoni
Of course, there is no single definition of femininity; it’s totally subjective. But the vibe dominating the catwalks is one of bright colors, maybe a feather, something diaphanous and lingerie-inspired. In other words, we know it when we see it.
Clockwise from left: Burberry, Prada, Miu Miu, Fendi, Bottega Veneta, Dior
Cult Gaia sheer midi dress with floral appliques
Speaking of parties, evenings and after dark, the designers’ message is clear: it’s time to go back to black. But before you let intrusive thoughts of anything simple cloud your judgment, note that there’s a big S sparkle to these looks. Apply the sequins and shimmer like the night sky.
Clockwise from left: Etro, Givenchy, Peter Do, Michael Kors, Isabel Marant, Erdem, JW Anderson, Altuzarra
Re-Edition 2000 bag made of Re-Nylon with sequins
There’s just something so outrageously cool about the bomber jacket. Designers are leaning into the fearless vibe that a great leather jacket can exude, touting that you can fly a plane anytime, kill it at a work meeting, or wear white pants all day in NYC – shearling optional.
Clockwise from left: Khaite, Louis Vuitton, Coach, Akris, Prada, Sacai, Miu Miu
Nice short leather jacket
Designers are returning to the drawing board. A literal tabula rasa. And lean into the power of a big white tank top. Maybe throw a logo on it? Or keep it bare. But the point is, this must-have goes well with almost anything and has a certain power in its lightness. Have you ever tried too hard and looked longingly at the girl in jeans and a tank top and wished you’d done less? She showed up at Bottega Veneta and now we all want to be her too.
Clockwise from left: Prada, Bottega Veneta, Christopher Esber, Chloe, Telfar, Chloe, Bevza
The trench coat is a wardrobe staple, but that doesn’t mean you have to be one and be ready. The fall runways are filled with versions that flip the premise of your favorite tan jacket on its head. Why not opt for a trench dress? A pleated trench coat? A trench coat with cutouts? Suddenly this basic feels less, well, basic.
Clockwise from left: Burberry, Sacai, Burberry, The Row, Richard Quinn, Coperni, Dior, Proenza Schouler
The color story unfolding on the fall runways is pulled straight from your top desk drawer with the bold colors of your favorite highlighters. Whether you want to stand out in bright yellow, magenta, or green, this trend isn’t for dwindling violets.
Clockwise from left: Valentino, Dries Van Noten, Chanel, Gabriela Hearst, Melitta Baumista, Michael Kors Collection, Alexander McQueen, Oscar de la Renta
Neon colored silk satin maxi skirt with cut out detailing
Le Smoking’s enduring chic is no coincidence. A woman in a tuxedo is something to behold, and now her options are endless. From super slim to slightly oversized or paired with a baseball cap, it’s official tuxedo season.
Clockwise from left: Alaia, Ralph Lauren, Saint Laurent, Tom Ford, Proenza Schouler, Bottega Veneta, Givenchy
Cropped virgin wool tuxedo blazer
Designers have proven their affinity for being inspired by upscale pastimes: tennis, golf and of course everything equestrian. An unbridled love of horse girl culture currently reigns – if you will excuse our puns – in the form of single-breasted jackets, skinny trousers, knee-high boots and anything else befitting a weekend in the English countryside.
Clockwise from left: Rosetta Getty, Tory Burch, Hermès, Adeam, Off-White, Tod’s
The silhouette of the moment is extra long and body-hugging—though not awkward. It’s less about showing each curve and more about creating a long line. After so many seasons of baggy and just oversized proportions, it feels just right.
Clockwise from left: Balenciaga, Ann Demeulemeester, The Row, Saint Laurent, Alaia, Courreges
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